Monday, 13 February 2017

LAZY SUSAN SHOW RACK - 3 INDEPENDENT DOUBLE-DECKERS EACH CONNECTED WITH A LADY SUSAN

Just finished Lazy Susan shoe rack of Solid Pine wood. The rack consists of three double deck shelves connected each with a 12" heavy duty lazy susan. Each double Decker swivels independent and the entire unit sits on a 6" base with one of the three lazy Susan. This was built for my son's family, whose footwear is scattered everywhere in the triple car garage.
Each shelf is 24" diameter and lower two shelves are 7" high, middle two 8" and top three 9" high. Shelf supports are made from 1 1/4" pine dowels, sitting inside pockets drilled with a matching dia Forster drill bit.
Assembly got over today, needs final finish of wipe on polyurethane (clear Satin finish)
Base is 18" dia pine circle.
This project cost me US$250/- approx including three 12" heavy duty Lazy Susan and solid pine lumber.






LARGE GARAGE SHELVING

  1. This week's completed Project:
    Large Garage Shelving
    Size 72" H X 96" W X 24" D
    Wood Used is Douglas Fir
    Uniqueness of this project:...
    "Framed" finish of Unstained Douglas Fir (finished with Poly) and center part of each shelf and the shelves support legs, stained with Cowboy Suede tinted Chalk Board Paint with Wax Sealant.



Thursday, 12 November 2015

NEW POWER TOOLS ADDED TO MY WORKSHOP LAST WEEK

Hi Everyone

HAPPY DEEPAWALI TO ALL OF YOUR & YOUR FAMILY MEMBERS.
For Deepawali, I have added the following quality power tools to my workshop. 

1. Makita Circular Saw 5740NB
2. Makita Impact Driver TD0101
3. Makita Finishing Sander BO5031

All these work very efficiently and with accuracy expected of a Japanese Designed power tool.

As part of upgrade to my workshop, I have also upgraded substantially utility value and importance of my solid woodworking bench, details of its built and dimensions etc, i have already shared  I would share full details of the upgrade as a separate post soon

KADAMBI





Saturday, 3 October 2015

FOLD-ABLE IRONING BENCH

I have been planning to build a fold-able ironing bench for a while, Most of it i have seen on various youtube channels were mounted on the shorter side of bench, since the height at which it is mounted is around 30", all those short side mounted benches close upwards, displaying the 'ugly' backside. 
I wanted to display the nice side of the Bench and decided that by mounting it on the longer side and using hardware to fold down, instead of fold up, i can achieve it. 
Another design consideration was most of the ready made folding ironing tables are too narrow and are on tubular frame, which i did not like it, as it occupies floor space and too narrow to iron full length and breath of pants and shirts and other dresses. 
So, i got a 220 lb capacity fold down wall bracket of heavy steel (one pair) and Moisture Resistance plywood of 3/4" thickness and a Felt backed ironing mat of 48"x 24" with a silicon pad for resting iron. 
I cut the desired size plywood and sanded nicely and edges slightly rounded by sanding and mounting the mat with 23x13 staples using manual staple gun.

i HAVE used Ebco Wall Bracker WB-40 (400mm) and 100 kg capacity Rs.600/-
felt backed ironing mat of 48"x24" from Pepperfry Rs.500/-
MR grade 19mm plywood   Rs.650/-
Kangaro Miles Hand Staples Gun Model No.TS2313A (this gun takes 23/6 to 23/13mm staples and also 18 gauge brad nails upto 13mm length. Rs.1100/- (purchased online from Offimart)

wall bracket mounted with wall anchors and 3" long deck screws tightened with my Impact driver. I used 13mm staple pins for fixing the mat to the plywood, I folded back the mat as my bench is 18" wide and the mat was 24" wide, so the staples go to the back and main advantage of the fold down bracket is NICE SIDE OF IRONING BENCH IS VISIBLE ALWAYS AND NOT THE ugly back side of it, as it could happen if it was a foldup bracket. 



Wednesday, 10 September 2014

UNIQUE PVC FRAME & WOODEN TOP BED

UNIQUE BED WITH PVC FRAME

Hi All,

I wish to share with you a UNIQUE project of a quick, half a Day work of a bed, with nice wooden top and frame made of 1.5" PVC pipes and PVC fittings. Top is clamped to the frame. This design and build is a creation of one of my dear friend and trainee-mate during the 6 week Training Programme at AWTC, Bangalore. His name is Raghu Rao, and he is too modest to give any publicity to his work. Being a friend, i managed to get his permission to post and share the details with Forum Members.   

I liked it very much is the innovation of the design, and simplicity of its build, with basic tools and basic skills. I am sharing the photo of the BED, when it was dry fitted, and it was too high, subsequently the height was reduced by 6", making it a nice perfect bed. Now, it is normal single Bed dimensions of 75" X 36" X 18". One can cut PVC pipe with a hack saw or a coping saw and use the joiners with PVC cement. For top, if no woodworking need to be done, then one can buy a ready Block board Door of 36" wide and 75" high. and do only sanding and polishing/painting/varnish, depending upon choice and budget.

KADAMBI 




Sunday, 24 November 2013

HOME BUILT - FESTOOL STYLE Multi Functional Table mounted on 8020 extrusions of  45mmX45mm

I wish to share the latest project I have just finished, it is Festool Style MFT with a 20mm holes on the entire table top of 48* X 27" on a 4" square grid. The boring of all these holes was done with a 20mm Carbide Forstner Bit, after carefully drawing a perfect 4" grid on a 19mm MDF board. This board is mounted on a 45mm square 8020 extrusion, which has mitre corners, so that the clamps and other connectors can be inserted from all corners. The 20mm dia holes would take all bench dogs of 20mm and also those plastic clamping pieces which come with Black and Decker Workmate, in combination with Festool Special MFT clamps (which are sold in India my Hefele India Ltd. 

It is pretty simple to make, as long as one takes great care while drawing the 4" grid on the table top (festool uses 96mm grid, as it is cut with CNC or multiboring machines, which have got 32mm spacing between two boring heads (centre to centre), I choose to make 100mm grid, as it is easier to mark exact 100mm and the boring is done manually. You have a choice of making with a router or a vertical drill stand. As I was not sure of safety of using a carbide Forstner bit on a router, I used my Einhell Red 18volts Li Ion cordless Impact Drill. You can also make a acrylic template of say 10mm thickness having a grid of 5x5 holes or 3x5 holes and keep boring thro the template. As I am making just one table top, i did not go thro the template route, instead spent lot of time, carefully drawing the grid and punching the centre hole on all points of intersection of 4" spaced lines on X and Y axis and bored each hole, by carefully parking the centre tip of the Forstner bit on the punched hole and keeping the drill vertical with the help of a T square held next to its body.

These are the few photos showing the home made MFT and also some items clamped on it using Festool, special MFT clamps and Workmate bench dogs.








Sunday, 17 November 2013

HOME BUILT SCROLL SAW WITH 
EINHELL RED JIG SAW RT-JS 85

Jig Saw is quite versatile for any contour cutting and even straight cutting of small pieces and thin material, which is not possible with either a handheld circular saw or on a table saw similar to what i have built and shared on this blog. 

But, many times i found that, I was unable to turn the Jigsaw at the right moment and right angle or arc, resulting in ruining the design I was planning. This I realised, could be solved if I mount the Jigsaw similar to my mounting my circular saw into a table saw mode, so that it would be much easier for me to move and feed the wooden piece on to the cutting blade and i can see all the time, the entire design i am cutting.

So I decided to mount it, but having a dedicated table top (with box beneath, as dust collection module to which i hook up my vacuum (please see my table saw blog for details), i decided that i would mount the jigsaw on a insert plat (similar to router insert plate) and would insert it on a box top. the same box top, can be used for various other tools, i am planning to mount, to free both my hands for manoeuvring the wood than the machine. (next in line would be my belt sander, my 82mm power planner, angle grinder and ofcourse a router)

I decided to use a bamboo kitchen cutting board of 15"X 9" and cost me just Rs.190/-, I have purchased four such boards for my various other tool mounting.  I routed a recess, to snug fit the aluminum caste base of my jigsaw, the recess was exactly of the same depth as the thickness of base plate (12mm) and the cutting board is 19mm thick. This I have done, to bring the firmly clamped part of the blade, as close as possible to the mounting plate surface, so that, while cutting the blade would remain firm and straight enough to give a true cut @ 90 degree to surface. Overarm with a clamp to hold the tip of the jigsaw blade is also in the making and i would install it so that the entire blade would remain straight while moving up and down. 

I used the two threaded knob base of the jigsaw for fixing a parallel guide to fasten the jigsaw from the insert plate top (with counter sinking) and to ensure firm clamping, also used a washer and a wing nuts and at the rear, drilled a centralised hole on the base the fastened it similarly. The following picture would make it very clear and no further build details need to be given. I have shown the mounted jigsaw just clamped as the box to receive this as insert plate is in the making as on date. 

Nothing new or innovative, but I wished to share so that others can adopt a few features which may be unique the way it is mounted etc.  Happy DIYing.